Veneer Cutting Knives are used in the woodworking industry to obtain sliced veneer from wood, mainly of valuable species, which serves as a facing material used in the manufacture of furniture and construction. Veneer knives are designed for fine cutting of sliced and peeled veneer with a thickness of 0.6 - 0.8 mm along and across the grain on special industrial scissors for cutting veneer strips into sheets of a certain format and trimming veneer pieces. With their help, the veneer is cut into sheets of the required size.
Knives are made from two-layer Compound steel of our own
production with a body made of ST3 steel, and an alloyed layer of WD1 and DIN1.2510 steel with a hardness of 55 ... 60 HRC, or from German steels with a cutting layer hardness of 58 .. .60 HRC.
The average knife life before regrinding is:
When cutting veneer along the grain: 32 hours;
- when cutting veneer across the grain: 7 hours
The average durability of a knife when planing mahogany or beech veneer with a thickness of 0.6-0.8 mm removed and feeding from 16 to 22 strokes per minute is from 1 to 8 hours, depending on the hardness of the wood.
Standard knives are manufactured in length L = 900-3100 mm, width B = 115 and 150 mm and thickness S = 9 and 15 mm according to TU 14-19-102-90, according to the dimensions given in the table. The knives listed in the table can, at the request of the customer, be manufactured with increased accuracy.
Sizes of standard knives
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GUILLOTINE KNIVES VENEER GOST, TU |
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Along with standard knives, a wide range of tools is produced according to drawings, samples and customer's sketches up to 3500 mm long, used on almost all brands of machine tools now available in machine parks. Four examples of these knives are shown below. We produce knives according to drawings not only two-layer, but also single-layer.
Guillotine shears knife for cutting veneer with Chernyshova scissors according to GMZ drawing No. Н-3683.
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If we talk in simple words, then veneering is the gluing of thin sheets of wood with a beautiful structure (in fact) on a wooden base - be it a table, wall or door - of lower decorative qualities. It turns out that veneering furniture means dressing it in nice clothes.
Veneering is more correctly called veneering... But it so happened that the slang word "veneer" is more familiar to the average ear than "veneer".
Why veneer furniture?
There are two main points.
Firstly, price... You can veneer a pine table with your own hands, "turning" it into an oak one, while the appearance will hardly be inferior to a real oak one. But the price will be an order of magnitude lower. And if you remember about - it does not dry out, does not deform, does not lend itself to the influence of moisture and temperature - then you should seriously think - is it worth spending money on furniture made of valuable wood?
Secondly, ample opportunities design... Do-it-yourself veneering allows you to turn a tattered window sill into a new one, and a boring wardrobe into a completely new Art Nouveau item at no extra cost, just by using plywood.
Veneering: types
There are several main types of veneering, let's take a quick look at them.
- Hot veneering... With this method, the veneer is glued to the base thanks to adhesives. The most affordable method for home conditions, which will be discussed in the article.
- Cold veneering... Here the veneer is pressed to the base. We are talking about pressing machines or screw clamps, which not every owner of the house has.
- Membrane veneering... An industrial method used for veneering complex surfaces. Membrane veneering is based on the vacuum bonding of veneer and slabs - both smooth and embossed.
How to veneer with your own hands?
Let's move on to a step-by-step review of the hot veneering process as the most acceptable at home.
Basic tools and materials:
-veneer
- the base that we will veneer
- plywood knife
- PVA glue
- iron (better old, Soviet)
- a blank sheet of paper
- wooden block, roller (for grouting)
- emery cloth
- cutter
DIY veneering: preparation
The basis for do-it-yourself veneering should be perfectly flat, all defects are sealed with putty or sedenticon glue. After the putty (glue) has dried, we clean the surface with sandpaper.
Before directly do it yourself, it is necessary to prepare the veneer for work. Natural veneer is often deformed - twisted into a roll, warped, etc. Giving the veneer sheets the correct position is not difficult: moisten the veneer with a damp sponge and place it under the press between the layers of plywood. Place wrapping paper (on both sides of the veneer) between the veneer and the plywood to absorb excess moisture.
Now we need to take care of the size. Today, to decorate furniture and walls, planed veneer is most often used - long but narrow sheets (no wider than 30 cm). To glue, for example, a table, you need to prepare in advance pieces of veneer of the required length - as a rule, it should slightly protrude beyond the edges of the base (at the end, the excess can be cut off and smoked). It is not recommended to cut the veneer with a knife or scissors - it will crack or cut unevenly. Better to use a plywood knife or planer.
DIY veneering: gluing
Do-it-yourself veneering at the next stage involves gluing the veneer and base.
For do-it-yourself plywood, PVA-based glue is perfect. You can read more about wood adhesives.
So, we put glue on the veneer, and on the base we glue an area of the appropriate size with glue. Experts advise to coat with glue two times: the first time should be dried until almost completely dry, when the glue practically does not stick, and the second time we dry it until it is tacky. Double glue coating guarantees a “dead grip”.
But if for some reason, when veneering with your own hands, you decide to glue the veneer and the base with glue once, wait at least 10 minutes for the glue to dry.
Next, we will use the ability of PVA glue to show fluidity when heated: we heat the iron to an average temperature, about 50 degrees (but you cannot bring the glue to a boil, this will nullify all its functions), and iron the veneer through a sheet of white paper (for the inexperienced). Immediately after using the iron, we begin to work with a wooden bar, a roller: we rub it in, squeezes the veneer and the base.
Do-it-yourself veneer it is necessary so that the veneer sheets overlap by 3-4 mm. When gluing the joints, pay special attention: as if crush it with an iron.
Now we determine if we have made voids and places not seized by glue: we just lightly drum with our nails on the veneer. If a defect is found, iron the place again with an iron. It didn't help - you have to cut the bulge with a thin cutter and pour the glue (with a syringe, for example).
DIY veneering: end of the process
A few hours after veneering with our own hands (directly gluing), when the object dries out, we take up cutting and sanding the excess.
I would like to say a few words about how to skin veneered surfaces. At the joints of veneer sheets, as a rule, there is a little PVA glue. While the non-glue areas are easy to sand, the adhesive areas form sticky rolls, but not sand. The result can be unevenness, so pay attention to the moment with the glue first.
When using veneer, you need to be extremely careful - it is a thin material that can easily rub off (especially when using a grinder).
DIY plywood almost over! Now there are only aesthetic moments left - coating, final finishing.
How do you see, do it yourself at home not difficult at all. And if you still have questions, we hope that a video on how to plywood with your own hands will answer them!
Tatiana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board
Veneer is a wood-based sheet material used for surface cladding of products and for the manufacture of glued and bent-glued parts. As an independent product, veneer is used extremely rarely, as a rule, we are faced with blanks already prepared for use, created by veneering or veneering, i.e. with panels already glued on with thin layers of natural veneer. Despite the fact that veneer made of the rarest species of wood was used in the manufacture of genuine masterpieces furniture production Some people still consider veneering to be a secondary way of working with wood compared to solid wood.
However, few would deny that veneer and veneered plywood lend a unique character to furniture and other wood products, whether through their natural design or when they are inlaid in a decorative or geometric pattern.
Today, with the widespread use of modern adhesives and artificial boards and panels, veneered or veneered products outperform solid wood in certain situations. In an environment where the natural resources of valuable wood are gradually disappearing, veneer and plywood allow us to economize on scarce material so that we can continue to admire and enjoy this natural miracle.
How veneer is made.
Veneer production requires special knowledge and great skill. It starts with buying logs. The customer determines the quality of the raw materials required for the commercial viability of making veneer from it. Using your experience and qualifications, when buying, you should evaluate the internal condition of the wood solely by outward appearance logs.
By examining the end of the log, you need to determine the quality of the wood, the potential pattern of the veneer, the color and ratio of sapwood to heartwood. It is necessary to simultaneously take into account other factors that affect the value of the log, including the presence and extent of secondary stains and some imperfections and defects, such as cracks, ingrown bark, excessive knotty, resin passages or pockets. Most of these defects are detected the first time a log is cut along its length, but the purchaser must purchase the log before it is cut.
After the log is purchased and delivered to the sawmill, it all depends on the skill of the veneer cutter, since it is he who must determine The best way processing raw materials to obtain the largest number of sheets of high quality material.
Sorting.
When cutting decorative veneer, its sheets are stacked in turn in a bale. The veneer is dried before sorting.
Veneer from most types of wood is cut according to standard sizes by a "guillotine" - a cutting machine. Others - for example, yew or burl - are left as cut.
Veneer price depends on size and quality. It is assessed on the basis of natural defects or defects acquired during the processing of wood, for example, in thickness, type of pattern and color, and belongs to the corresponding group. One log can produce veneer of different quality. Better quality veneers are cladding grades and are valued higher than second-rate (poorer or worse) veneers for covering the back of products.
The veneer is stored in bundles with the number of sheets in multiples of four (16,24,28 or 32 pieces) in order to match the pattern on the sheets. The bundles are stacked in order, and, like a newly assembled log from the sheets, is stored in a warehouse in cool conditions, ready for sale.
Cutting veneer.
Plywood logs are cut from the main tree trunk between the butt and the first branch. The bark is removed and the wood is checked for foreign bodies such as nails and other foreign bodies.
Before processing the log into veneer, it is softened by immersion in hot water or steaming. Such processing can be applied either to the whole log, or to blanks cut from it with a huge band saw, suitable for one or another method of obtaining veneer. The conditions for this processing are set in accordance with the type and hardness of the wood and the required veneer thickness. The term can range from several days to several weeks. Light-colored woods such as maple do not undergo this preparation, as this process will discolor the veneer. There are three main ways to obtain veneer: veneer sawing, peeling and planing.
Before the invention of veneer planing machines at the beginning of the 18th century, all veneer was produced first by hand and then by mechanical saws. Such veneers were relatively thick - sometimes up to 3 mm. Sawed veneer, although very material-intensive, is still made using special circular (circular) saws, but only for rare or difficult-to-work varieties, such as twisted wood, or in special cases, if it is economically viable. Its thickness is usually 1-1.2 mm.
To cut veneer sheets for lamination, you can use band saw or cutting machine with a table in your home workshop, especially if it turns out to be more economical or gives you a more suitable material than available industrial veneer.
Peeling.
Ornamental veneer made from soft and some hard types of wood is cut using a peeling method. The whole log is installed in a large peeling machine, which cuts off the “endless” veneer sheet. The ridge, rotating, is pressed against the knife and the pressure bar along the entire length of the machine. The knife is installed directly under the bar and in front of the thickness of the veneer. The location of the knife and bar in relation to the log is very important to prevent surface defects - cracks, the so-called scoring. For each turn of the log, the knife is automatically pushed forward by the thickness of the sheet.
The veneer produced in this way can be distinguished by the distinct “watery” pattern formed when the knife passes through the growth rings. Peeling is especially effective when obtaining veneer for the production of artificial wood materials, since the width of the sheet is practically unlimited here. Although this method was originally used for cutting ornamental veneers, it can also be used for decorative veneers such as bird's eye maple.
Eccentric (off-center) stubble cultivation.
The peeling machine can also be used to produce a wide decorative veneer with sapwood at each end to create a pattern similar to a beautiful pattern from another cut. This is achieved by shifting the axis of the log relative to the clamps of the machine, which leads to eccentric cutting of the log. This method can be realized with the help of special holders, in which the ridge is fixed either as a whole or in a “half” semicircular form. In this case, the veneer is cut at a smaller angle than with an eccentrically installed log in the machine, but the width is not so wide.
Planing.
The planing method is used to produce hardwood veneers. How the logs should be planed depends on the natural characteristics of the tree. First, the log is sawn lengthwise in two and the structure is evaluated to determine a possible pattern. The ridge can be cut further in such a way as to obtain the required pattern. It is how the log is cut and installed in the machine that determines the pattern. The width of the sheet with this method depends on the dimensions of the workpiece.
The half or "quarter" of the log is attached to a movable frame that moves up and down. The clamp bar and knife are horizontally positioned in front of the workpiece, and with each downward stroke of the frame, a veneer sheet is cut. After each cut, the knife or workpiece is fed forward to the required veneer thickness. Planing a half-log in this way produces a decorative veneer usually used in the manufacture of cabinets, sideboards, chests of drawers, etc. It has the same beautiful pattern as tangentially cut boards.
Sorts of wood, which give a beautiful pattern during cross-laminated sawing, are cut into blanks in a radial way. The workpieces are installed in the machine so that the rays go in the direction as close as possible to the cutting direction. Quarters of the log can also be used to make longitudinally laminated veneers using the tangential cutting method, which results in a very beautiful pattern.
Cracking.
Veneer machines are like huge planers, and the veneer is "shavings" from them. But in this case, it is important that the chips are smooth and strictly consistent in size. The cutting quality is controlled by the pressure of the clamping bar and the position of the knife. Fine cracks (nicks) can form on the back of the veneer, especially with the peeling method. This side is called "open" or "loose" and the other is called "closed" or "tight". They can be determined by bending the veneer: it will bend more if the open side of the veneer is convex.
Always try to lay the veneer with the closed side out, as the rougher surface (open side) is less easy to finish.
2. Cutting veneer
The veneer is cut by two methods - manual or mechanical guillotine-scissors, depending on the volume, goals and objectives of each particular enterprise.
Cutting veneer on a guillotine
How to mark and cut veneer?
When marking veneer blanks for the face, it is necessary to provide for a small allowance in dimensions, approximately 3 - 5 mm, in case of shift or distortion during gluing, as well as for adjusting the joints.
Edgebanding strips can be marked without a width allowance due to the small size. The width of the strip can be taken exactly equal to the thickness of the glued edge. And if the edge is pasted over after the face, the thickness of the veneer glued to the face must be added to the width of the strip.
You can cut the veneer using an ordinary well-sharpened folding knife. Just don't rush. Do not try to cut the veneer in one stroke. You can damage it. While holding the ruler, first slide the knife with very light pressure, as if marking a trail. Then gradually increase the pressure each time. After 4 - 5 knife passes, the cut-off part of the veneer will easily come off.
When cutting veneer along the grain, never run the knife towards the annual layers. This can lead to oblique tearing of the veneer between the layers. Cut only in the direction of the annual layers. When cutting veneer across the grain or at an oblique angle, make a counter-cut 15 - 20 mm long at the end of the cutting line with scissors. Otherwise, in this place, under the pressure of the knife, the veneer may break.
a - cutting veneer along the grain, b - cutting veneer across the grain,
c - cutting veneer along a curved line
In those places where the veneer has to be cut not in a straight line, but along a curved line, for example, for the edge of a curved door, you should not use a knife, but ordinary scissors. But in these cases, the cut line should not be marked with separate dot marks, with a solid pencil line using the part itself as a template. The scissors can also cut narrow straight veneer strips at the ends for pasting any edges.
It is only necessary to cut it carefully, according to preliminary pencil markings and so that a tight (without gaps) adjoining the end of one strip to the end of another is ensured. Having cut all the veneer blanks, lay them out alternately on each surface to be glued and check the correctness of the set of patterns and the accuracy of joining. In order not to confuse the blanks when gluing, number them with a pencil on the wrong side and put the same numbers on the corresponding places of the surfaces to be pasted, and draw boundary lines where the blanks will be joined.
3. A set of shirts
A set of veneer shirts is made manually using a gummed tape (gumirka), or on a splicing machine with a hot-melt thread. 
a - a set of shirts using a gumirka
b - a set of shirts using a machine with a hot-melt thread
4. Making a shield
A workpiece from a solid pine board is glued along the face, calibrated on a grinding and calibrating machine with a coarse calibration shaft. 
grinding and sizing machine
MDF 4 mm is glued to the shield on both sides and calibrated with two shafts. 1 coarse shaft - 80 grit, 2 clean shaft - 120 grit.
5. Veneer sticker
On a previously prepared veneer jacket (the material must be dry, free from dust, fats and oils. The moisture content should be 8-12%. At a moisture content of more than 15%, sufficient adhesion strength is not ensured), glue is applied with a spray gun or a spatula.There are several options for gluing veneer to the base using a PVA emulsion, for example:
1) "Cold" method using vacuum system or mechanical screw presses. The result: by gradually increasing the pressure to remove air between the veneer and the substrate, a very strong bond is obtained.
2) "Hot" method in a small workshop: the glue is applied to the base and dried for 5 - 10 minutes until the state of a translucent film.
Next, a veneer sheet is applied, paper on top and smoothed with an iron - gluing occurs instantly.
The method is ideal for soft wood species prone to strong warping under the influence of moisture, as well as for applying veneer to the edge.
Too little application of PVA glue results in weak adhesion, as well as too much glue.
membrane press
Adhesive based on urea-formaldehyde resin completely different from PVA adhesives. It belongs to a chemical group with a number of unique characteristics.
First of all, its open time is about 30 minutes at 20C.
After complete polymerization (4-6 hours at 20C), it reaches a "stone" state and can even be sanded. In addition, after drying, nothing can soften it - neither heat, nor cold, nor solvents, which makes it indispensable for curved veneer products.
The product is available in powder and liquid form. But liquid glue has a short storage time and requires the addition of a catalyst (acid, which is dangerous for transportation). The powder already contains the catalyst (in the form of a powder additive - and is not an acid). The powder is mixed with water to the consistency of PVA glue. The resulting working portion can be used within 45 minutes at 20C.
It should be noted that both PVA and glue based on urea-formaldehyde resin should be used at a temperature not lower than 15C. Otherwise, the adhesive properties will be worse, the strength of the joints will suffer. It is better to glue at higher temperatures.
Contact adhesive. With traditional contact adhesives, the pressure devices that are required with other adhesives are not required. But, since it "grasps" almost instantly, it is necessary to lay the veneer the first time - the position correction is impossible.
Currently, “soft” types of contact glue are used for gluing veneers. Such modified versions of adhesives allow for a short time to correct the position of the connection elements.
Contact adhesives can only be used in a well-ventilated area, since the odor emitted is unpleasant and toxic. In the furniture industry, a short-term pressing cycle is envisaged.
In the workshop, when working with contact adhesives, stitching rolls or wood lapping devices are widely used to press down and remove air bubbles.
Polyurethane based adhesive. Polyurethane adhesive does not shrink and is used even under heavy loads on the bonded surfaces. It contains no solvents (it consists almost entirely of solid synthetic resins), and the gradual curing provides high adhesion strength and the ability to correct errors until the moment it cures completely.
The advantages of this type of glue include the ability to glue porous surfaces - the glue tends to foam a little during the hardening process and fill in irregularities.
Often used when gluing oily wood. For example, olive parquet flooring is glued with PUR glue to a base that can withstand loads.
Bonds faster in humid environments.
Protein (bone) glue("Cold") is a traditional wood glue. It is still made from animal skins and bones, the protein of which gives the species its adhesive properties. Once upon a time, this glue was the main one in woodworking. It was produced in the form of granules, which had to be filled with water and boiled in a glue boiler.
The main application is in the restoration of antique furniture, reversible gluing of joints that can be disassembled with water or alcohol. With this glue, there are several minutes to correct the position of the parts and install the clamps. Before gluing, it can be tinted with aniline dyes in the color of the wood.
| Adhesive composition | Appointment | Open time(average values) | Pros / Cons |
| PVA glue | Most often used for gluing veneer to a substrate | 15-20 minutes at 20C | Pros: Cons: - when "seeping" on the veneer leaves a noticeable stain during finishing |
| Urea-formaldehyde adhesive | It is used to create bent-glued plywood products, less often for gluing veneer. | 30 minutes at 20C | Pros: Possibility of mixing dark and white for tinting the glue line Cons: you need to prepare glue yourself from the powder composition. |
| Contact adhesive | Fast drying mixture. It is widely used in the production of kitchen furniture. Perfectly glues veneer (plywood). | Average 30 minutes | Pros: Minuses: |
| Polyurethane adhesive | They are used on problematic substrates (which are subject to deformation), as well as when working with porous and oily wood | 20-30 minutes (shortened at high temperature or water supply) | Pros: Minuses: |
| Protein glue | The main application is in the restoration of antique furniture, reversible gluing of joints that can be disassembled with water or alcohol. | 20-30 minutes at 20C | Pros: the ability to disassemble mating parts. Minuses: |
6. Formatting.
The door leaf is formatted to fit
7. Edgebanding
Edge banding is performed either manually with an iron or on an edge banding machine, while in the first case, PVA glue is used, in the second, specialized granular glue (hot melt) is used
